The arithmetic, in three lines
There are only two numbers you need, and one of them is on this page already.
- Size.From each listing: 30 ml for The Ordinary’s retinols and the CeraVe serum, 15 ml for The Ordinary’s retinal emulsion, 207 ml for the Gold Bond lotion, a 45 g pump for the Differin gel.
- Today’s price, on the buy button of each pick, stamped with the date we checked it.
- Divide one by the other and you have cost per millilitre— the only cross-product comparison that holds when the pack sizes differ by a factor of fourteen.
Then multiply by the length of the course rather than the length of the bottle. The double-blind histology on prescription tretinoin showed the structural changes building and peaking at around ten months, with no further gain out to twenty-two; the collagen trial that found an 80% rise in collagen I formation ran for ten to twelve months. Whatever you buy, the honest planning horizon is most of a year.
Why we will not print a “lasts 3 months” figure
Because no brand on this page publishes one, and the published dosing work does not supply it either. The fingertip-unit paper — the standard dermatological way to reason about how much topical product an area takes — puts the face and neck together at 2.5 units, with one unit covering about 286 cm². That tells you a face is a small area and a leg is not. It does not convert into millilitres of a cosmetic serum per night, and anyone who gives you that number has made it up.
What you can do instead is measure your own: note the date you open a bottle and the date it runs out. One bottle of data beats every estimate on the internet, including ours.
Three ways a cheap retinol turns out expensive
- A small bottle with a low price tag.The Ordinary’s retinal emulsion is the clearest example on this page: it is the cheapest retinal anywhere we have looked, and it is a 15 ml bottle, so its cost per millilitre is nothing like as low as its cost per bottle suggests. It earns its place for people already high on the ladder, not for people shopping on price.
- Buying a volume you cannot finish before it degrades.The validated stability study of 16 retinoid derivatives across 12 commercial cosmetics found degradation ranging from nothing to total over six months at 25 °C, worse again at 40 °C, and light worse than heat. The FDA’s own cosmetic shelf-life guidance adds that no US law requires a cosmetic to carry an expiry date and that heat and dipping fingers into a product shorten its life. A 500 ml jar of retinol lotion you will use for a year is a worse deal than it looks.
- Paying for an undisclosed dose. This is the one this site cares about most. If the percentage is not published, you cannot know whether a cheaper bottle is cheaper per unit of retinoid or simply weaker. Three of the six picks here state a figure; the other three do not, and we flag it on every card. A premium price for an unstated strength is the worst value in the category, which is why no premium serum appears on this page at all.
The criteria, in order
- Cost per millilitre, not cost per bottle. Computed from the live price and the published size, by you, today.
- A stated strength wins a tie. Between two products at the same cost per millilitre, the one that prints its percentage is the better purchase every time.
- A volume you can finish in a few months. On the stability record, buying bigger past that point is buying degradation.
- Fragrance-free beats fragranced at the same price, because fragrance is among the commonest causes of allergic contact dermatitis and a product you abandon in week three has an infinite cost per result.
- No premium pricing for an unpublished dose. Every product on this page is in the budget or mid band.
Which to buy, by situation
You want the best retinol per pound, full stop:The Ordinary 0.5%. If you have never used a retinoid, the same brand’s 0.2% at the same size and price band is the sensible start — see our beginner picks.
You want face and body covered by one cheap bottle: Gold Bond. Our full reviewexplains what its “overnight” claim is really describing.
Your problem is acne, not lines: the Differin gel. A 45 g pump used at a pea a night is the longest-lasting pack on this page, and it is a regulated over-the-counter drug with a printed strength and trial evidence behind it, which no cosmetic here can claim.
You react to plain retinol: CeraVe Resurfacing, whose ceramides and niacinamide do the cushioning work that stops a cheap retinoid becoming an abandoned one.
You are shopping the drugstore aisle specifically: our drugstore roundup ranks by what is actually on the shelf in a pharmacy, which is a different question from value.
What we left out, and why
Every premium serum.Some of them are good products — they are on our other pages — and none of them is a value pick. Paying four times as much for an unstated strength is the opposite of this page’s argument.
Multi-buys, subscriptions and bundle maths. We publish one live price per product, from the price layer, with a date. We do not model deals, predict discounts or tell you to wait for an event. When real deals land, they land on our Black Friday page with the same live prices.
The two products in our registry without a live price today. A value page without a price is not a value page, so they are not here.